Southeastern Area Command Underground HQ
Tunbridge Wells
Finding the Bunker and the rise of speculation
On March 13th 1969 a local builder investigating land for a property company called Bricklands Ltd wandered into the very much overgrown woodland called Hargate Forest, bordering onto Broadwater Down, Tunbridge Wells. He was to discover what appeared to be a strange, small brick built blockhouse emerging from an earthen bank. His job was to scout the land for property developers who were keen to build on the woodland site but instead he discovered a secret that had lain undisturbed for twenty three years.
Shortly after his discovery a team of four men representing Bricklands Ltd and with the permission of the Abergavenny Estate who owned the land broke into the bricked up structure and entered the bunker for the first time since it was sealed by the MOD in 1946.
On 21st March 1969 the Courier newspaper ran the story covering the find but unfortunately for the explorers winter rain had flooded the interior almost to capacity and their transit through the dark labyrinth had to be curtailed, further reinforcing the rumour that they had discovered a vast underground structure.
The instant the article was printed the Courier began receiving letters from various people who had either worked at the site during the war or had some recollections of its construction and function. Many of these letters, no doubt tarnished by the passage of time on the human memory, spoke of vast chambers, secret tunnels and absurdly deep excavations and of the nick-name that it was to become known by in modern times,“The Wilderness”.
The volume of mail received by the Courier prompted them to write to General Montgomery at his then home in Hampshire and ask him directly if he knew what the bunker was built for?
His verbatim reply:
“ I know nothing what ever of the underground D-Day H.Q. It was not built for me and I
never gave any orders for it to be built. At no time during the 1939-45 war did I ever have
an H.Q underground;
I do not believe in such a Headquarters - they are wrong and bad for moral”.
With the printing of this the Courier unwittingly rekindled even more controversy by asking the question that if the bunker was not built for General Montgomery and that he knew nothing of it, then who did build it and why?
On March 13th 1969 a local builder investigating land for a property company called Bricklands Ltd wandered into the very much overgrown woodland called Hargate Forest, bordering onto Broadwater Down, Tunbridge Wells. He was to discover what appeared to be a strange, small brick built blockhouse emerging from an earthen bank. His job was to scout the land for property developers who were keen to build on the woodland site but instead he discovered a secret that had lain undisturbed for twenty three years.
Shortly after his discovery a team of four men representing Bricklands Ltd and with the permission of the Abergavenny Estate who owned the land broke into the bricked up structure and entered the bunker for the first time since it was sealed by the MOD in 1946.
On 21st March 1969 the Courier newspaper ran the story covering the find but unfortunately for the explorers winter rain had flooded the interior almost to capacity and their transit through the dark labyrinth had to be curtailed, further reinforcing the rumour that they had discovered a vast underground structure.
The instant the article was printed the Courier began receiving letters from various people who had either worked at the site during the war or had some recollections of its construction and function. Many of these letters, no doubt tarnished by the passage of time on the human memory, spoke of vast chambers, secret tunnels and absurdly deep excavations and of the nick-name that it was to become known by in modern times,“The Wilderness”.
The volume of mail received by the Courier prompted them to write to General Montgomery at his then home in Hampshire and ask him directly if he knew what the bunker was built for?
His verbatim reply:
“ I know nothing what ever of the underground D-Day H.Q. It was not built for me and I
never gave any orders for it to be built. At no time during the 1939-45 war did I ever have
an H.Q underground;
I do not believe in such a Headquarters - they are wrong and bad for moral”.
With the printing of this the Courier unwittingly rekindled even more controversy by asking the question that if the bunker was not built for General Montgomery and that he knew nothing of it, then who did build it and why?
The northern entrance hidden in undergrowth in the 1990's.
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This southern entrance was all that was visible shortly after the discovery.
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Ten years later in December 1979 the Courier newspaper printed a two part article detailing a thorough investigation into the building and use of the bunker, now referred to unanimously as, “The Wilderness”. This article included newly taken photographs of the inside of the bunker and a full write up of the journalists attempts to find the truth from official records and interviews with the people who had come forward since the bunkers discovery in 1969.
The article included a statement by Sir Neil Ritchie, the then commander of 12th Corps who replaced General Montgomery in 1942. He also adamantly denied knowing anything about the bunker or that it even existed, strange when documents have now been uncovered showing the bunker in use by the Commanders own Signals Division in 1942!
In all, the two part special article does little to answer the many questions that the bunkers discovery ten years before, had raised and if anything adds more to the mystery rather than solving it.
However, the article does give this vivid description of the bunkers interior by the first official explorers, sponsored by the Courier, since the war:
“ There are two main galleries about 120yds long and off them like rungs on a ladder are eight rooms about 15 yds long, (no mention is made of the separate engine room). Three of the rooms are concrete lined but the remainder are steel lined only. In one room we found the remains of a wooden partition, two tables and a war office issue light shade. We also located a fuse box and the remains of telephone wiring system together with a gun rack. It appears that only the northern end around entrances A & C show any signs of use”. (Refers to the northern and western entrances)
The article included a statement by Sir Neil Ritchie, the then commander of 12th Corps who replaced General Montgomery in 1942. He also adamantly denied knowing anything about the bunker or that it even existed, strange when documents have now been uncovered showing the bunker in use by the Commanders own Signals Division in 1942!
In all, the two part special article does little to answer the many questions that the bunkers discovery ten years before, had raised and if anything adds more to the mystery rather than solving it.
However, the article does give this vivid description of the bunkers interior by the first official explorers, sponsored by the Courier, since the war:
“ There are two main galleries about 120yds long and off them like rungs on a ladder are eight rooms about 15 yds long, (no mention is made of the separate engine room). Three of the rooms are concrete lined but the remainder are steel lined only. In one room we found the remains of a wooden partition, two tables and a war office issue light shade. We also located a fuse box and the remains of telephone wiring system together with a gun rack. It appears that only the northern end around entrances A & C show any signs of use”. (Refers to the northern and western entrances)
As if the story was destined to come full circle in October 1990 and January 1991 the Courier printed two articles informing us that the land on top of the bunker was to be built on after all. A property developer had shown great interest in the now valuable area and the bunker would be filled in and sealed up for good. A visit made by myself in March 1996 found all three bunker entrances standing exposed above newly cleared ground with demolition imminent by the summer.
Subsequently, local residents had complained about the loss of woodland habitat and had strongly protested against any development of the wood on purely environmental grounds. By May 2008, the wood was again much overgrown and it appeared that the local residents had won a reprieve and that the woodland retreat complete with its bunker were safe.
All of the written accounts about the bunker including the many newspaper articles published since it’s discovery over forty years ago have failed to fully explain why this relic of world war two was built and for what reason. Speculation and hearsay have been fueled by local gossip and a distinct lack of official evidence. Even the name “The Wilderness” has no official origin.
The reason for this is simple, in 1979 with the cold war still very much in evidence all records relating to the war office home forces activities in world war two were closed and classified until the year 2045. It is perhaps for this reason that both General Montgomery and Sir Neil Ritchie, were not obliged to disclose any facts of their respective war time activities to local journalists in the 1970’s.
After all we now know that General Montgomery had the use of the South Eastern Command bunker under Reigate Hill in spite of his denial of having never used such facilities.
Only with the coming of the freedom of information act of 2005 have such records been released for public viewing and only then at the discretion of the relevant authorities.
Subsequently, local residents had complained about the loss of woodland habitat and had strongly protested against any development of the wood on purely environmental grounds. By May 2008, the wood was again much overgrown and it appeared that the local residents had won a reprieve and that the woodland retreat complete with its bunker were safe.
All of the written accounts about the bunker including the many newspaper articles published since it’s discovery over forty years ago have failed to fully explain why this relic of world war two was built and for what reason. Speculation and hearsay have been fueled by local gossip and a distinct lack of official evidence. Even the name “The Wilderness” has no official origin.
The reason for this is simple, in 1979 with the cold war still very much in evidence all records relating to the war office home forces activities in world war two were closed and classified until the year 2045. It is perhaps for this reason that both General Montgomery and Sir Neil Ritchie, were not obliged to disclose any facts of their respective war time activities to local journalists in the 1970’s.
After all we now know that General Montgomery had the use of the South Eastern Command bunker under Reigate Hill in spite of his denial of having never used such facilities.
Only with the coming of the freedom of information act of 2005 have such records been released for public viewing and only then at the discretion of the relevant authorities.
The entrance to Hargate Forest, Broadwater Down.
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The northern entrance blockhouse in 1996 when the destruction of the site seemed certain.
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The War In 1941
To place the events leading up to the construction of this bunker into their correct context we have to remind ourselves of the events that were unfolding just prior to the beginning of the excavation work in 1941.
The stark reality was that in those early dark days of 1940 Britain was totally unprepared for another war.
With the loss of the British foothold in the Mediterranean with the German invasion of Crete, a back door attack on Germany was now impossible. British forces were sent to North Africa but struggle to counter German advances. Britain stands alone in Europe against the might of the German army and at the whim of Adolf Hitler. Invasion seems imminent and in 1940 - 41 Britain faces the misery of the Blitz and America has not yet entered the war.
However, in May 1941 Hitler tells his Generals that attacks on Britain are simply a cover for his real directive plan and will shortly subside. He ultimately begins his primary major conquest; the full scale invasion of Russia in June 1941. The pressure on Britain has been released and the invasion threat evaporates.
Our story now begins with the arrival in the spring of 1941, of the 172nd Tunnelling Company, Royal Engineers in Tunbridge Wells, Kent. And with them came the building of the first of five major underground HQ’s for south eastern area command.
The original war diaries for the 172nd TC, RE and 12th corps army regiments show that very early in the war 12th Corps Southern Area Command, had already established an HQ at N0.2 Broadwater Down.
To place the events leading up to the construction of this bunker into their correct context we have to remind ourselves of the events that were unfolding just prior to the beginning of the excavation work in 1941.
The stark reality was that in those early dark days of 1940 Britain was totally unprepared for another war.
With the loss of the British foothold in the Mediterranean with the German invasion of Crete, a back door attack on Germany was now impossible. British forces were sent to North Africa but struggle to counter German advances. Britain stands alone in Europe against the might of the German army and at the whim of Adolf Hitler. Invasion seems imminent and in 1940 - 41 Britain faces the misery of the Blitz and America has not yet entered the war.
However, in May 1941 Hitler tells his Generals that attacks on Britain are simply a cover for his real directive plan and will shortly subside. He ultimately begins his primary major conquest; the full scale invasion of Russia in June 1941. The pressure on Britain has been released and the invasion threat evaporates.
Our story now begins with the arrival in the spring of 1941, of the 172nd Tunnelling Company, Royal Engineers in Tunbridge Wells, Kent. And with them came the building of the first of five major underground HQ’s for south eastern area command.
The original war diaries for the 172nd TC, RE and 12th corps army regiments show that very early in the war 12th Corps Southern Area Command, had already established an HQ at N0.2 Broadwater Down.
Extracts from the 12th Corps War Diaries:
8th April 1941 Temporary Battle HQ constructed in cellar of 21, Broadwater Down for
“A” and “Q” branches and Admin services.
8th May 1941 Lt. Gen. B L Montgomery CB. DSO. Assumes Command of 12 Corps.
General Montgomery moves into No.10 Broadwater Down in April 1941 and stays until November. This is appropriate with N0.2 and N0.21 being used as 12th Corps HQ’s.
8th April 1941 Temporary Battle HQ constructed in cellar of 21, Broadwater Down for
“A” and “Q” branches and Admin services.
8th May 1941 Lt. Gen. B L Montgomery CB. DSO. Assumes Command of 12 Corps.
General Montgomery moves into No.10 Broadwater Down in April 1941 and stays until November. This is appropriate with N0.2 and N0.21 being used as 12th Corps HQ’s.
This April entry assumes that at some point a permanent HQ would be constructed for 12th Corps particularly as Kent was to become their entire area of command. It is worth knowing that Tunbridge Wells was selected because it lies right at the extreme western edge (a nodal point to the military meaning a strong point to be defended at all costs) of the County and has excellent transport connections to London.
Extracts from the War Diary of The 172nd Tunnelling Company, RE:
11th May 1941 No.1 Section proceeded to Tunbridge Wells as advanced party.
(approx. 30 men from Aldershot)
19th May 1941 The work on the 12th Corps dug – out at Tunbridge Wells was officially
taken over by 172nd Tunnelling Company, RE.
20th May 1941 HQ section with No.’s 3 & 4 sections under 2nd/Lt BE Howle RE and
2nd /Lt PE Rawley RE, moved from Aldershot to Tunbridge Wells.
( approx. 100 men )
These diary entries illustrate the rapid mobilisation of the 172nd Tunnelling Company from Aldershot. One section is about 20 to 30 men and it seems that initially just this number began work on the bunker already assigned as a much needed secure HQ for 12th Corps at the rear nodal point of southern area command, Kent.
As Lt. Gen. Montgomery had assumed command of 12th Corps on May 8th it seems certain that he had an office at the then temporary HQ at 21, Broadwater Down while residing at No. 10 Broadwater Down only a short walk away. But as the bunker construction was firmly under the command of the 172nd TC and not yet handed over to 12th Corps, Montgomery may not have been aware of it’s instigation in May 1941.
Lt. Gen. Montgomery was to take command of the 8th Army in Africa the following year on 13th August 1942 and his tenure with 12th Corps in Tunbridge Wells ended in November 1941.
By the end of May 1941 the Blitz on London had begun to subside though the Luftwaffe made frequent attacks on the Home Counties. The war in Africa and the Battle of the Atlantic largely carried away the imminent threat of an invasion of England by the German army. Between June & December 1941 Hitler carried out his invasion of Russia and with this England began to assume that there would certainly be no invasion attempt on its shores at least until the summer of 1942; if at all.
These unfolding events happening as they did towards the completion of work on the bunker meant that a reduction in the urgency and intended role of the excavation became apparent. From mid 1941, 12th Corps were firmly established in their now permanent and comfortable HQ at No. 21 Broadwater Down and were to remain there throughout the duration of the war.
Furthermore, the Navy had their newly constructed bunker at South Heighton, Newhaven and Southern Area Command as a group, had the use of the newly extended bunker under Reigate Hill. Even before it’s completion it seems that the Tunbridge Wells bunker was already redundant.
Extracts from the War Diary of The 172nd Tunnelling Company, RE:
11th May 1941 No.1 Section proceeded to Tunbridge Wells as advanced party.
(approx. 30 men from Aldershot)
19th May 1941 The work on the 12th Corps dug – out at Tunbridge Wells was officially
taken over by 172nd Tunnelling Company, RE.
20th May 1941 HQ section with No.’s 3 & 4 sections under 2nd/Lt BE Howle RE and
2nd /Lt PE Rawley RE, moved from Aldershot to Tunbridge Wells.
( approx. 100 men )
These diary entries illustrate the rapid mobilisation of the 172nd Tunnelling Company from Aldershot. One section is about 20 to 30 men and it seems that initially just this number began work on the bunker already assigned as a much needed secure HQ for 12th Corps at the rear nodal point of southern area command, Kent.
As Lt. Gen. Montgomery had assumed command of 12th Corps on May 8th it seems certain that he had an office at the then temporary HQ at 21, Broadwater Down while residing at No. 10 Broadwater Down only a short walk away. But as the bunker construction was firmly under the command of the 172nd TC and not yet handed over to 12th Corps, Montgomery may not have been aware of it’s instigation in May 1941.
Lt. Gen. Montgomery was to take command of the 8th Army in Africa the following year on 13th August 1942 and his tenure with 12th Corps in Tunbridge Wells ended in November 1941.
By the end of May 1941 the Blitz on London had begun to subside though the Luftwaffe made frequent attacks on the Home Counties. The war in Africa and the Battle of the Atlantic largely carried away the imminent threat of an invasion of England by the German army. Between June & December 1941 Hitler carried out his invasion of Russia and with this England began to assume that there would certainly be no invasion attempt on its shores at least until the summer of 1942; if at all.
These unfolding events happening as they did towards the completion of work on the bunker meant that a reduction in the urgency and intended role of the excavation became apparent. From mid 1941, 12th Corps were firmly established in their now permanent and comfortable HQ at No. 21 Broadwater Down and were to remain there throughout the duration of the war.
Furthermore, the Navy had their newly constructed bunker at South Heighton, Newhaven and Southern Area Command as a group, had the use of the newly extended bunker under Reigate Hill. Even before it’s completion it seems that the Tunbridge Wells bunker was already redundant.
Above: No.10 Broadwater Down as it is today with centre, The King leaving the building via the front doorway above right.
Building the Bunker
A temporary HQ for 12th Corps had been established at 21, Broadwater Down on 8th April 1941 and it was six weeks later on May 19th 1941 that the 172nd TC officially took over the construction of the bunker under the command of Major L. Foss, RE.
To continue the story the war diary entries of Lt. J. Broomhead, RE of the 172nd TC now with his HQ established at 19, Molyneux Park Road, Tunbridge Wells, does the best job:
21st May 1941 No’s 1, 2, 3, 4, sections ( approx 120 men ) are now working on the 12th Corps
dug-out.
The 3 shift system has been adopted over a 7 day week, on the basis of 3
sections working while one rests.
The work is being carried out in Sandstone with Clay partings and blasting is
necessary. A small amount of water has to be dealt with.
The 4 sections and HQ section are accommodated in unfurnished houses and the
company HQ has been established at No. 19 Molyneux Park Road.
16th June 1941 2 shift system at 12th Corps shelter, Broadwater Down. 2 sections working each
shift. This change became necessary with the opening up of additional faces.
18th June 1941 Lt W E Maxnist and 8 men of the Royal Canadian 1st Tunnelling Engineers arrived
at Broadwater Down to put down (Drill) a series of Boreholes to chambers of
shelter.
19th July 1941 Tunnelling operations on the 12th Corps shelter at Broadwater Down is now
completed.
No’s 1 & 3 sections are detailed to prepare and carry out the concreting of floors in
chambers and galleries, and steps in drift.
(No. 3 section were transferred from this job on August 26th leaving No.1
section, about 30 men, to complete the aforementioned task.)
14th September 1941 No.1 section complete the task of concreting carried out at the 12th Corps HQ
shelter, Broadwater Down.......................
By this date the bunker is all but complete. Lt J. Broomhead then completes his September war diary entry with a detailed account of the finished bunkers dimensions:
“.....This task consists of laying 4” floor of concrete in chambers and galleries, and stepping, up inclines, with this work completed our association with 12th Corps HQ shelter came to an end, and we hand over to Q branch, 12th Corps. Shelter driven in medium hard sandstone, have an approximate area of 9000 Sq Ft. Entrance is gained by 3 inclined drifts on dip of 35 degrees to a vert. depth of 60’; supported by steel arches and covered in with arcuate sheeting dimensions 6’ 6” x 5’. Two parallel galleries with nine connecting chambers form the underground shelter; this work is carried through and supported by steel arches dimensions 9’ x 8’ and covered with arcuate sheeting. Average cover over shelter 60’ ”.
A temporary HQ for 12th Corps had been established at 21, Broadwater Down on 8th April 1941 and it was six weeks later on May 19th 1941 that the 172nd TC officially took over the construction of the bunker under the command of Major L. Foss, RE.
To continue the story the war diary entries of Lt. J. Broomhead, RE of the 172nd TC now with his HQ established at 19, Molyneux Park Road, Tunbridge Wells, does the best job:
21st May 1941 No’s 1, 2, 3, 4, sections ( approx 120 men ) are now working on the 12th Corps
dug-out.
The 3 shift system has been adopted over a 7 day week, on the basis of 3
sections working while one rests.
The work is being carried out in Sandstone with Clay partings and blasting is
necessary. A small amount of water has to be dealt with.
The 4 sections and HQ section are accommodated in unfurnished houses and the
company HQ has been established at No. 19 Molyneux Park Road.
16th June 1941 2 shift system at 12th Corps shelter, Broadwater Down. 2 sections working each
shift. This change became necessary with the opening up of additional faces.
18th June 1941 Lt W E Maxnist and 8 men of the Royal Canadian 1st Tunnelling Engineers arrived
at Broadwater Down to put down (Drill) a series of Boreholes to chambers of
shelter.
19th July 1941 Tunnelling operations on the 12th Corps shelter at Broadwater Down is now
completed.
No’s 1 & 3 sections are detailed to prepare and carry out the concreting of floors in
chambers and galleries, and steps in drift.
(No. 3 section were transferred from this job on August 26th leaving No.1
section, about 30 men, to complete the aforementioned task.)
14th September 1941 No.1 section complete the task of concreting carried out at the 12th Corps HQ
shelter, Broadwater Down.......................
By this date the bunker is all but complete. Lt J. Broomhead then completes his September war diary entry with a detailed account of the finished bunkers dimensions:
“.....This task consists of laying 4” floor of concrete in chambers and galleries, and stepping, up inclines, with this work completed our association with 12th Corps HQ shelter came to an end, and we hand over to Q branch, 12th Corps. Shelter driven in medium hard sandstone, have an approximate area of 9000 Sq Ft. Entrance is gained by 3 inclined drifts on dip of 35 degrees to a vert. depth of 60’; supported by steel arches and covered in with arcuate sheeting dimensions 6’ 6” x 5’. Two parallel galleries with nine connecting chambers form the underground shelter; this work is carried through and supported by steel arches dimensions 9’ x 8’ and covered with arcuate sheeting. Average cover over shelter 60’ ”.
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It is at this point in the construction story in September 1941 that the purpose of the bunker changed. Though referred to as an “HQ Shelter” with the acute risk of invasion having subsided the urgent need for an underground HQ of this proportion, evaporated.
The diary entry for September 1941 clearly indicates that after five months work, construction had finished leaving any further fitting out work to be done by 12th Corps, Q Branch in their own time.
The 172nd TC war diary continues:
10th October 1941 No.3 section march out of billets at Tunbridge Wells. Entrain at Tunbridge
Wells station and proceed to Sarre, where they are to construct a system
of deep shelters for Bde HQ.
This date marks the last entry into the war diary while the 172nd TC were billeted in Tunbridge Wells and also marks the end of all official records referring directly to the 12th Corps HQ Shelter in Broadwater Down. The building of the final command bunker at Sarre in Kent concluded the work of the 172nd TC in southern England.
The diary entry for September 1941 clearly indicates that after five months work, construction had finished leaving any further fitting out work to be done by 12th Corps, Q Branch in their own time.
The 172nd TC war diary continues:
10th October 1941 No.3 section march out of billets at Tunbridge Wells. Entrain at Tunbridge
Wells station and proceed to Sarre, where they are to construct a system
of deep shelters for Bde HQ.
This date marks the last entry into the war diary while the 172nd TC were billeted in Tunbridge Wells and also marks the end of all official records referring directly to the 12th Corps HQ Shelter in Broadwater Down. The building of the final command bunker at Sarre in Kent concluded the work of the 172nd TC in southern England.
Was the bunker ever actually used?
When we explored the internal galleries and chambers of the bunker in December 1985 there was much evidence to suspect that the rooms inside were never used.
Firstly, there is the abandoned builders skip in gallery one, then only three chambers were concrete lined and of these only the first chamber was fitted with electrical power. In gallery two, the largest tunnel, wooden shelving has been fitted and a fuse box leading to the generator room complete with power line conduits have been installed. We know from first hand accounts that a diesel generator was installed and when we explored the engine room there was intact the mounting brackets for such a generator and an exhaust pipe passing up through the roof to surface level.
However, the two main galleries have not been divided up into separate rooms as is the case with the similar HMS Forward bunker, built at Newhaven.
The remaining six chambers have not been lined and remain in their raw construction state. Add to this fact that lighting conduits seem only to reach as far as rooms one and two and barely cover the full extent of the two main galleries one can draw the conclusion that this bunker saw little if any use.
Previous eye witness accounts had stated that the bunker had seen some use as a communications HQ and that civil contractors had supplemented the bunkers power demands by connecting it to the national grid at some point in late 1941 early 1942.
Further research first uncovered a document showing the wireless transmission plan for 12th Corps Signals dated July 1940. This plan shows that the HQ for the Signals Division was based at No. 32, Broadwater Down. Evidence that the Signals Division had been operating in Tunbridge Wells from the outset of the war and No.32 is virtually opposite the site where the bunker was to be constructed.
Further research gave the answer. During those dark early days of the war it seems that all branches of the home defence force were kept fully alert with constant exercises designed to test their respective readiness if the worst happened; A full scale German invasion on the south coast of England.
One such exercise code named “Babel One” was set up on 10th January 1942 and designed to test all the communications networks functioning in the Kent area of command. This exercise was completed successfully on 16th January 1942.
On the accompanying W/T map for the exercise operating a Morse coder on the frequency of 1970 kilocycles and with the call sign QX is the Tunbridge Wells Bunker. The Bunker was used by 12th Corps Signals.
Unfortunately the official trail now goes cold. Our prolonged search through 12th Corps Signals documents does not mention the bunker again but does state that in 1943 a teleprinter HQ was established in the cellar of No.16 Broadwater Down. This suggests that the bunker was probably no longer used by the Signals Division at this time.
When we explored the internal galleries and chambers of the bunker in December 1985 there was much evidence to suspect that the rooms inside were never used.
Firstly, there is the abandoned builders skip in gallery one, then only three chambers were concrete lined and of these only the first chamber was fitted with electrical power. In gallery two, the largest tunnel, wooden shelving has been fitted and a fuse box leading to the generator room complete with power line conduits have been installed. We know from first hand accounts that a diesel generator was installed and when we explored the engine room there was intact the mounting brackets for such a generator and an exhaust pipe passing up through the roof to surface level.
However, the two main galleries have not been divided up into separate rooms as is the case with the similar HMS Forward bunker, built at Newhaven.
The remaining six chambers have not been lined and remain in their raw construction state. Add to this fact that lighting conduits seem only to reach as far as rooms one and two and barely cover the full extent of the two main galleries one can draw the conclusion that this bunker saw little if any use.
Previous eye witness accounts had stated that the bunker had seen some use as a communications HQ and that civil contractors had supplemented the bunkers power demands by connecting it to the national grid at some point in late 1941 early 1942.
Further research first uncovered a document showing the wireless transmission plan for 12th Corps Signals dated July 1940. This plan shows that the HQ for the Signals Division was based at No. 32, Broadwater Down. Evidence that the Signals Division had been operating in Tunbridge Wells from the outset of the war and No.32 is virtually opposite the site where the bunker was to be constructed.
Further research gave the answer. During those dark early days of the war it seems that all branches of the home defence force were kept fully alert with constant exercises designed to test their respective readiness if the worst happened; A full scale German invasion on the south coast of England.
One such exercise code named “Babel One” was set up on 10th January 1942 and designed to test all the communications networks functioning in the Kent area of command. This exercise was completed successfully on 16th January 1942.
On the accompanying W/T map for the exercise operating a Morse coder on the frequency of 1970 kilocycles and with the call sign QX is the Tunbridge Wells Bunker. The Bunker was used by 12th Corps Signals.
Unfortunately the official trail now goes cold. Our prolonged search through 12th Corps Signals documents does not mention the bunker again but does state that in 1943 a teleprinter HQ was established in the cellar of No.16 Broadwater Down. This suggests that the bunker was probably no longer used by the Signals Division at this time.
Was the Bunker simply abandoned?
In the absence of documentary evidence it is hard to answer this question formally but the following maybe assumed:
The bunker was in limited use by 12th Corps Signals for about 12 months but they had no need to expand into the larger space available. By late 1942 it became clear that the bunker had a flooding problem being built as it was in semi porous sandstone and clay. Pumping out the water was a constant job and one eye witness account does give valuable insight into perhaps why the bunker was indeed abandoned:-
A Mr Richard Hayward was a member of the 172nd TC detailed to build the bunker in May 1941 and though his recollections of the bunkers size and layout are vague he does mention the constant flooding problem and that members of the Labour Corps were detailed to work 24 hours a day to keep the water level under control. Clearly, the storage and use of electrical equipment in a permanently damp atmosphere had become untenable by the winter of 1942.
I suspect that all radio equipment was removed and the bunker placed on a standard care and maintenance schedule. It would have been heavily guarded, patrolled and out of bounds to civilians but unused and empty.
Finally, in 1946, the MOD sealed the bunker up and paid the landowners compensation for damages. Ownership reverted back to the original landowners and the surrounding woodland gradually began to hide the three surface block house entrances from public curiosity. The bunker had visually and officially ceased to exist.
In the absence of documentary evidence it is hard to answer this question formally but the following maybe assumed:
The bunker was in limited use by 12th Corps Signals for about 12 months but they had no need to expand into the larger space available. By late 1942 it became clear that the bunker had a flooding problem being built as it was in semi porous sandstone and clay. Pumping out the water was a constant job and one eye witness account does give valuable insight into perhaps why the bunker was indeed abandoned:-
A Mr Richard Hayward was a member of the 172nd TC detailed to build the bunker in May 1941 and though his recollections of the bunkers size and layout are vague he does mention the constant flooding problem and that members of the Labour Corps were detailed to work 24 hours a day to keep the water level under control. Clearly, the storage and use of electrical equipment in a permanently damp atmosphere had become untenable by the winter of 1942.
I suspect that all radio equipment was removed and the bunker placed on a standard care and maintenance schedule. It would have been heavily guarded, patrolled and out of bounds to civilians but unused and empty.
Finally, in 1946, the MOD sealed the bunker up and paid the landowners compensation for damages. Ownership reverted back to the original landowners and the surrounding woodland gradually began to hide the three surface block house entrances from public curiosity. The bunker had visually and officially ceased to exist.
The Bunker Today
In the seventy seven years that have elapsed since the bunker was built it has lain forgotten and abandoned for all but four of those years. Perhaps as a testimony to the men that built it, the overall condition is surprisingly good. Throughout the yearly cycle of seasons it is generally fully flooded with at least two local streams draining directly into it. During the driest of summers the water level has been known to fall to just a few inches and with the influx of constantly moving air through the three entrances all the internal steel fixtures are rusting albeit slowly, away.
All the metal surfaces have a thick coating of slimy rust on them and the stagnant water covers broken conduits, rotten wooden fittings, collapsed lining material and more recently, debris carried in by the many inquisitive visitors. It is a totally dark, eerie and filthy vault where the high humidity causes your breath to condense into clouds of mist before you and sharp, slimy objects protruding from broken linings snag you at every turn. In short it is not a place to visit safely and it is hoped that the accompanying pictures will satisfy the curiosity aroused in the reader of this narrative.
In the seventy seven years that have elapsed since the bunker was built it has lain forgotten and abandoned for all but four of those years. Perhaps as a testimony to the men that built it, the overall condition is surprisingly good. Throughout the yearly cycle of seasons it is generally fully flooded with at least two local streams draining directly into it. During the driest of summers the water level has been known to fall to just a few inches and with the influx of constantly moving air through the three entrances all the internal steel fixtures are rusting albeit slowly, away.
All the metal surfaces have a thick coating of slimy rust on them and the stagnant water covers broken conduits, rotten wooden fittings, collapsed lining material and more recently, debris carried in by the many inquisitive visitors. It is a totally dark, eerie and filthy vault where the high humidity causes your breath to condense into clouds of mist before you and sharp, slimy objects protruding from broken linings snag you at every turn. In short it is not a place to visit safely and it is hoped that the accompanying pictures will satisfy the curiosity aroused in the reader of this narrative.
We should remember that the cost of building a bunker of this size would have been considerable employing so many man hours and materials over an extensive five month period.
The fact that it was one of four being constructed at the same time and then never fully used gives us an insight into the minds of a government in defensive overload in 1941.
But at nearly seventy seven years old the bunker has survived into our modern world.
When fully flooded hydrostatic pressure acts as a solid filling and counteracts the tendency for the walls to cave inward. The sandstone bedrock though porous and subject to weathering is relatively stable provided there are no other geological forces at work. All this points to the bunker being in moderately good condition and as such could remain as it is easily for another hundred years.
If evidence were needed to support this claim keep in mind that we are finding subterranean shelters and tunnels under both Belgium and France dating back to the Great War that have survived in pristine condition for one hundred years and they were dug in less stable geology and used wooden props.
This all points to the conclusion that it won’t collapse anytime soon and at the time of writing, the site is again overgrown with the three block houses stoically resisting decay and attracting increasing vandalism. The bunker remains an unwelcome responsibility for the landowners who would dearly like to be rid of it so that the valuable land can be sold for redevelopment.
In truth the bunker played no heroic part in the war and sat throughout the conflict largely inactive and as such cannot be seriously considered worthy of protection as an historic artifact built in defence of the realm.
Time will however takes its toll and structural failure is inevitable resulting in serious subsidence at some point in the future if nothing is done with it at all.
Perhaps as if in irony of its period in history, the bunker will continue to retain its unintentional wartime role as the white elephant that nobody wants.
The fact that it was one of four being constructed at the same time and then never fully used gives us an insight into the minds of a government in defensive overload in 1941.
But at nearly seventy seven years old the bunker has survived into our modern world.
When fully flooded hydrostatic pressure acts as a solid filling and counteracts the tendency for the walls to cave inward. The sandstone bedrock though porous and subject to weathering is relatively stable provided there are no other geological forces at work. All this points to the bunker being in moderately good condition and as such could remain as it is easily for another hundred years.
If evidence were needed to support this claim keep in mind that we are finding subterranean shelters and tunnels under both Belgium and France dating back to the Great War that have survived in pristine condition for one hundred years and they were dug in less stable geology and used wooden props.
This all points to the conclusion that it won’t collapse anytime soon and at the time of writing, the site is again overgrown with the three block houses stoically resisting decay and attracting increasing vandalism. The bunker remains an unwelcome responsibility for the landowners who would dearly like to be rid of it so that the valuable land can be sold for redevelopment.
In truth the bunker played no heroic part in the war and sat throughout the conflict largely inactive and as such cannot be seriously considered worthy of protection as an historic artifact built in defence of the realm.
Time will however takes its toll and structural failure is inevitable resulting in serious subsidence at some point in the future if nothing is done with it at all.
Perhaps as if in irony of its period in history, the bunker will continue to retain its unintentional wartime role as the white elephant that nobody wants.
The main larger gallery showing some fittings still in place. Had it been used this large space would have been divided up in to smaller individual working areas.
Epilogue
Today, many if not all of the men who built the five south eastern command bunkers together with those who served in them during the war years will have passed on and taken their memories with them. The Hargate Forest bunker attracts a new generation of vandals and graffiti artists who know little of what made a team of men dig, blast, hack, hewn and tunnel out a cavernous construction from rock and clay over 75 years ago at the whim of a frightened government. As a memorial perhaps to those men, finding these bunkers and documenting them has proved that their work was of the highest quality because unlike them, their workmanship has survived into our high tech 21st century world, fully intact albeit totally out of context; it is for all the world, just there!
Today, many if not all of the men who built the five south eastern command bunkers together with those who served in them during the war years will have passed on and taken their memories with them. The Hargate Forest bunker attracts a new generation of vandals and graffiti artists who know little of what made a team of men dig, blast, hack, hewn and tunnel out a cavernous construction from rock and clay over 75 years ago at the whim of a frightened government. As a memorial perhaps to those men, finding these bunkers and documenting them has proved that their work was of the highest quality because unlike them, their workmanship has survived into our high tech 21st century world, fully intact albeit totally out of context; it is for all the world, just there!
The exposed block house of the western entrance as it was in 1996 with demolition imminent. Today it is fully overgrown again and difficult to find in the undergrowth.
With the help of one of our readers a concrete vehicle parking area has been located in front of the bunker complex with access from Broadwater Down road. It is buried under soil today but still there and perhaps a further indication of the importance of this HQ bunker had it been fully completed.
The bunker is on private land and cannot be entered legally without permission from the land owners.
With thanks to The Courier Newspaper. National Archives, Kew.
Copyright Steve Sullivan, June 2020
With thanks to The Courier Newspaper. National Archives, Kew.
Copyright Steve Sullivan, June 2020
